Kopitiams are a staple in Malaysian culture, offering tasty and affordably priced fare in a simple and nostalgic setting. In recent years, a new breed of modernized kopitiams have emerged, with enterprising chains such as Oriental and Nanyang dishing out classic fare, served in comfy and modern, air-conditioned premises.

One of the newer kids on the block is Guan’s. They opened their first outlet in Petaling Jaya last year, and more recently a branch in Pusat Bandar Puchong, which is sandwiched between a couple of offices and workshops.

Most modern kopitiams retain some elements of nostalgia in their design, but Guan’s is contemporary and decidedly Scandinavian, boasting clean, minimalist lines and an interior awash in hues of white and grey with wooden accents. An open drinks bar occupies much of the store front, so you can watch the baristas in action as they whip up glasses of tea and coffee.

A prerequisite for any kopitiam, be it modern or classic, is mastery of the basics, ie drinks. Guan’s did not disappoint. My White Coffee was smooth, strong, and aromatic but not too sweet, while N’s Cham (coffee + tea) was perfectly balanced.

N’s Nasi Lemak with Chicken Rendang came with the whole suite of goodies – a dollop of fiery sambal, crispy anchovies, peanuts, cool slices of cucumber, half a boiled egg, and a somewhat unconventional side of Chinese long beans. The chicken was tender and drenched in savoury, creamy rendang, which paired well with the fluffy santan-infused rice. Sambal was sweetish and spicy, which helped to balance out the dish. The anchovies were a tad too salty. Otherwise, a pretty decent nasi lemak.

My order of Mee Goreng Mamak was made fresh and came piping hot to the table, tendrils of steam wafting out from between the noodle strands. The portion was generous, loaded with tofu, bits of egg, fried onions, and tomatoes, and the dish had a slightly sweet taste which is typical of Mee Goreng Mamak. What I enjoyed is the wok hei – I could taste the slight char from the Maillard reaction that you can only get from cooking over high heat.

Aside from classics like the above and items like kaya/butter toast and half boiled eggs, Hainanese chicken chop, meehoon siam, etc., Guan’s also offers Western and fusion dishes like carbonara/aglio olio pasta and American big breakfast. The rice and noodle items are quite reasonably priced considering the cafe setting, ranging from RM13.90 to RM20++.

GUAN’S (PUSAT BANDAR PUCHONG)

31-G, Jalan Bandar 18, Pusat Bandar Puchong, 47610 Puchong, Selangor

Open daily from 8AM – 5PM

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PS2: All food reviews are paid out of my own pocket unless otherwise stated. Views here are my own and are based on my personal experience. They are not meant to endorse or disparage businesses in any way.


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