Buddhism was once widespread across South Asia, being the birthplace of the primary figure in Buddhism, Siddharta Gautama. Mighty kings such as Emperor Ashoka propagated the religion by sending missionaries to spread the teachings – but it gradually declined as Hindu and Muslim kingdoms emerged. Today, only 0.7% of India’s population is Buddhist.

In Sri Lanka, however, the island’s isolation from the mainland – as well as Buddhism’s early adoption by the monarchy – has allowed the religion to retain its influence for millennia. Sri Lanka is, in fact, one of the longest continuously Buddhist nations (over 70% of its population practice Theravada Buddhism), and one of only five in the world with a Buddhist majority.

Naturally, the capital city of Colombo is home to several beautiful Buddhist temples in the Theravada tradition, most notably Gangaramaya Temple.

Founded by a famous scholar monk called Hikkaduwe Sri Sumangala Nayaka Thera in the 19th century, the temple was originally a small hermitage built on marshy land by the shores of Beira Lake, Colombo’s largest freshwater lake. It is one of Colombo’s top tourist destinations, aside from being an active place of worship.

What to See Inside

The exterior, comprising a rather modern-looking facade, belies the temple vast size. Step into the grounds, however, and you’ll find several grand buildings, including an assembly hall for monks, a pagoda, a residential hall, a relics hall, and a museum for visitors.

Gangaramaya’s design is an eclectic mix of Sri Lankan, Indian, Thai, and Chinese influences. The latter two may be further geographically, but Thailand has had close ties to Sri Lanka for centuries, as both nations share a common religious identity.

Thai Buddhist monks would travel to Sri Lanka to ordain monks, and the Buddha statues at Gangaramaya’s Seema Malaka (assembly hall) are gifts from monasteries in Bangkok. The roof of the entrance building, too, resembles a Thai temple: multi-tiered and tipped in gold with curving spires.

Similarly, China and Sri Lanka first established relations through trade and religion, as Buddhism was the predominant belief in China in ancient times. During the major Chinese exodus of the 18th to 19th centuries, a small community established itself in Sri Lanka (mainly in Colombo, where they integrated into Sinhalese society). At Gangaramaya, these elements are present in the form of copper statues of Buddha and Guanyin, as well as stone lions flanking entrances to the buildings.

Main Shrine (Vihara)

Entering the main shrine, we were awed by the cavernous yet colourful space which housed a giant Buddha surrounded by smaller statues of heavenly beings, deities, and monks. The dias on which the Buddha sits on is decorated with lotus flowers, a traditional Buddhist symbol, while the phrabavali (arch/halo that acts as a backdrop to symbolise divine energy and radiance) features intricate motifs in gold, red, green, purple, and yellow.

Almost every square inch of the Vihara, including the ceiling, is covered in decorative elements. Despite the obvious difference in design, I find the resemblance to Baroque-era churches striking, as they too are highly decorative and theatrical.

Gaze up at the ceiling and you’ll find a bit of this European influence shining through in the form of a “fake dome” done in a technique similar to the trompe-l’œil, making the mandala look almost three-dimensional. The mandala is further surrounded by paintings of various stupas.

Jade Buddha Pavilion

Look out for the Buddha statue in the central courtyard, which is carved from white jade – a marvel to look at with its serene features and smooth surface.

The pavilion housing the statue is another prime example of Gangaramaya Temple’s mix of architectural styles: the roof with the slightly curved ends, as well as the carved dragon pillars, are unmistakably Chinese, while the stone elephant guardians at the foot of the staircases are a symbol of Sri Lanka.

Bodhi Tree

Buddha was said to have achieved enlightment under a Bodhi tree (a type of fig tree) in India’s Mahabodhi Temple, which today is an important pilgrimage spot as well as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Because of this, bodhi trees are revered as sacred, and it is not uncommon to see them in Buddhist temples around the world.

Gangaramaya has an impressive specimen, with a massive cluster of roots rising into a thick trunk and numerous branches that form a shady canopy in the courtyard. An elevated platform has been built around the tree, so that visitors can get a closer look.

Relics Hall

There are many halls scattered throughout the Gangaramaya Temple complex, but one I find especially beautiful is the relics hall. It features a semi-open space with multiple Buddha statues and stupas arranged in tiers, with a triangular silver spire at the back that reminds me of ancient Jain temples.

The stone material of the small Buddhas and stupas, which are brackish in colour and unadorned, are in striking contrast to the golden Buddha the top and the silver backdrop, which gleams when the sun hits it. The look is reminiscent to Indonesia’s Borobudur, but on a much smaller scale.

A lock of Buddha’s hair, a gift from a temple in Nepal, is enshrined within a glass chamber in this hall. Another interesting exhibit in the vicinity is a taxidermied Sri Lankan elephant which is very lifelike; complete with tusks and bristles on its skin!

Museum

Aside from being a place of worship, Gangaramaya Temple is also an educational and cultural institution. There is a small museum on-site displaying hundreds of precious artefacts and religious items, from vases and pots to rare coins, vintage cameras, and exquisite statues.

The collection is eclectic but interesting. There is, apparently a Rolls Royce on the temple grounds too, gifted by a wealthy devotee to the abbot – unfortunately we weren’t able to spot it on our tour.

Seema Malakaya (Assembly Hall)

Located a few hundred metres from the main temple complex, Seema Malaka is where the monks of Gangaramaya Temple go for deep meditation and to rest. It’s a tranquil setting, comprising three floating platforms surrounded by the emerald waters of Beira Lake.

The original structures were built in the 19th century, but it gradually sank into the lake. The ones we see today were built in the 1970s and largely adheres to its original design, with blue roof tiles.

Overall Thoughts

Gangaramaya Temple may not be the most peaceful temple you’ll visit in Colombo – it’s central location and popularity as both a house of worship and a tourist attraction means that the temple grounds are often busy at all times of the day.

Its architecture may not be the most refined – some people may find the mix of styles gaudy, and the displays of vintage cars and cameras out of place. The rather unorganised layout of the complex, with a building here and there instead of a clear pathway from one section to the next, means that you might miss out on some areas (especially if you are rushed on time, like we were).

That being said, I think it is precisely these reasons that make it so special. Sri Lanka has a rich and ancient history, but as a modern nation, it is relatively young. In ancient times, old kingdoms traded and did cultural and religious exchange with other civilisations including India, China, and Thailand. It has also seen conflicts and conquests by foreign powers, including the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the English. All of these influences are part of what makes up Sri Lanka today – and it shows in the temple’s design, architecture, and religious rituals. Even the ‘modern’ aspects reflect how Gangaramaya isn’t just a temple but a living and breathing showcase of the country’s religious and cultural fabric.

Getting There

Gangaramaya Temple is centrally located and easy to reach from most parts of the city. A tuk-tuk is the most characterful option and any driver in Colombo will know exactly where to go; alternatively ride-hailing apps like Uber and PickMe are also reliable. The nearest train station is Colombo Fort Railway Station.

Temple Etiquette

Gangaramaya is an active place of worship, so modest dressing is expected. Cover your shoulders and knees, and remove shoes and hats / caps before entering worship areas. Photography is generally permitted, but be discreet around monks and devotees, always ask before photographing people.

Practical Information

• Opening hours: 6:00 AM – 10:00 PM daily
• Entry fee: 300 – 500 LKR (approx 1USD)
• Best time to visit: Early morning, when the temple is quieter. Alternatively, arrive around 6:00 PM to catch the evening pooja (worship) which includes a traditional drumming ceremony

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