It would be remiss not to have crabs while in Sri Lanka, as the island nation is known for its abundance of Scylla serrata, or mud crabs, which can grow to giant sizes (some weighing up to 2 kg!)

Among Colombo’s many seafood restaurants, Ministry of Crab is perhaps the most well known. Opened in 2011, it was founded by Japanese-Sri Lankan chef Dharshan Munidasa, and was so well received that it landed on the annual Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, putting Colombo, then a relatively unknown culinary destination, on the world map. Today, Ministry of Crab has international outposts in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Shanghai, and Mumbai, to name a few.

Naturally, I was excited to see what their flagship had in store. Housed in the historic Dutch Hospital, which is now a shopping and dining district, the elegant restaurant is bright and spacious, its colonial era design blended with local elements.

The dining room has tall, large windows, allowing natural light to illuminate the space, and features lots of dark wood. A display area at the front of the restaurant showcases a selection of fresh seafood, including aforementioned giant crabs, as well as gargantuan lobsters and prawns.

As part of the Sri Lankan government’s efforts to curb overharvesting, MOC only serves crabs over 500gm; an initiative that they have observed since the restaurant’s opening. On lucky days where they have a good catch (and if you’re willing to splurge), you can order the Crabzilla, which are colossal two-kilo crabs!

When you have produce this good, there isn’t much need for fancy techniques; which is why MOC preps their crabs in simple styles. The Pepper Crab utilises another one of Sri Lanka’s popular exports, black pepper, while the Chilli Crab pays tribute to the iconic Singaporean dish that first gave Sri Lankan crabs its iconic status. You can also enjoy it pure, served with just warm butter and a ponzu-inspired original aged soy sauce, or the traditional way in a Sri Lankan curry.

The freshwater prawns, also called Lake Lobsters, are similarly humongous. My Butter Soy Prawnzilla was sweet and juicy, and the head brimmed with umami roe.

We now come to the star of the show – the Crab, prepared in a Garlic Sauce. The sauce’s simplicity is brilliant as the garlicky taste doesn’t overpower the natural sweetness of the crab, but allows it to shine through. The protein comes served with kadey, a rustic Sri Lankan bread, which is great for mopping up the gravy.

The ingredients are fresh, with no trace of muddiness. Male crabs net you more meat (the greatest satisfaction while enjoying crab is if you’re able to take a whole bite of meat from the claw!), while female crabs are sweeter in taste with a tender texture.

I still found some room for Ministry of Crab’s signature Coconut Creme Brulee, rounding the meal off on a sweet note. A twist on the traditional creme brulee, MOC’s version features coconut milk, giving it a tropical flavour. Crack the torched, sugary top before delving into the creamy custard within with your spoon, and enjoy both in a spoonful for a nice contrast of textures.

Some reviews have called Ministry of Crab a ‘tourist trap’ because of its hefty price tag. In my personal opinion, however, I think you get what you pay for, since the ingredients are very fresh and come in huge portions, and the food is well prepared. Service is friendly, with knowledgeable waiters – they know when to come to check at your table, but not hover over you constantly. It’s no wonder Ministry of Crab enjoys such popularity in its home country and beyond. Recommended if you’re travelling to Colombo and have the budget for it!

MINISTRY OF CRAB COLOMBO

Old Dutch Hospital Complex, 04 Hospital St, Colombo 00100, Sri Lanka

Phone: +94 77 002 4823

Opening hours: 12PM – 10.30PM (Daily)

Website and reservations: ministryofcrab.com

*The author’s visit was part of a media trip, where meals and expenses were covered by the organiser. All views and opinions expressed are solely those of the author and do not constitute an endorsement or criticism of any business, establishment, product, or service mentioned. Every experience is personal and may not reflect the views of others.

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