Central Asian cuisine is hard to find in Kuala Lumpur. One of the few places I know of that serves it is Astana in Taman Tun Dr Ismail, KL. The restaurant, which specialises in Kazakh and Russian food, has actually been around for over a decade and was previously located in Sri Petaling, before it shifted to its current premises last year.

Glass blocks at the entrance act as a privacy barrier, before you step into a warm and welcoming space. The modern design is spruced up with cultural decor: a raw concrete wall is adorned with colourful patterned plates; wooden shelves at the back of the restaurant display rustic pottery pieces and traditional hats, while Matryoshka dolls sit on the countertops.

Much of Central Asian culture and cuisine is shaped by its geography. The region’s vast, rolling steppes – stretching across what is now the modern-day ‘Stan’ regions – often had unpredictable climates and frigid winters, making them challenging for agriculture. This, in turn, gave rise to a nomadic lifestyle of livestock herding. Horses and sheep, in particular, were prized for their milk and meat.

Ancient trade roads, such as the Silk Road, also meant that Central Asia became the intersection where East meets West, with elements from China, Persia, and Arabia intermingling over the centuries.

The result is an interesting hodgepodge of flavours and dishes – items such as laghman (pulled noodles) are obviously derived from the Chinese lamian, while kebabs and plov (rice and meat dish) draw influences from Persian cuisine.

Horse meat may be taboo in Malaysia, but it is commonly enjoyed in Kazakhstan. The country’s national dish, Beshbarmak, features boiled meats (traditionally horse, but also beef or mutton) seasoned with pepper and salt, served over thick, flat noodles in an onion broth. Unfortunately we weren’t able to try Astana’s version on this visit – but it’s on my to-eat-list for the next trip.

What we got instead was the Kazy, or horse meat sausage (100 g – RM39) , made from seasoned horse rib meat that is stuffed into intestines and then boiled.

So, what does horse meat taste like? Flavour-wise, it is close to beef, with a sweet, smoky aftertaste. The texture is also very lean. Trivia: Horse meat is lower in fat and calories than beef (and also higher in protein), making it a healthier meat option.

A must-have here is the Manty, which you can get either steamed or fried (RM29). I was rewarded for my choice of the latter – the dumplings are humongous and perfectly fried with a crisp, golden exterior. The dish is served with a tangy garlic dip, which helps to cut through the heaviness.

Despite their size and the dough’s thickness, the insides are moist and bursting with juices from the minced beef and sweet onions. To acehieve this combination – crispy exterior and juicy insides – requires mastery of cooking techniques, which the chef at Astana pulls off flawlessly.

To round things off on a sweet note, the waitress recommended Oreshki (5 pieces – RM15) a walnut-shaped cookie with a sweet and creamy dulce de leche (caramelised milk) centre. It is a popular festive dessert in many Slavic countries, including Russia, Ukraine, Poland, and the Czech Republic. There isn’t actually any walnut in them, as the shells are just butter cookies baked in a mold – although, you can use crushed nuts as part of the filling.

Another rare-to-see dessert was the Kartoshka, a decadent Russian chocolate biscuit.

The Medovik (layered honey cake) is perhaps the most known of Russian desserts, and Astana serves a few different flavours, including the original and chocolate. Again, saving this for the next trip, as we were too full after our meal.

Astana is perhaps one of the only places in KL where you can find authentic Kazakhstani and Russian food, which makes it a must visit for curious epicureans. The environment is beautiful and cosy, the service is warm and they are happy to provide recommendations for those unfamiliar with the cuisine and how to enjoy it. Aside from the few items we tried, they also serve classics like Pelmeni (Russian dumplings), Borscht (sour beet soup), Khachapuri (Georgian cheese bread), and more. Prices are fair considering the setting – expect to pay upwards of RM25 for mains.

View Astana TTDI’s menu here.

ASTANA RESTAURANT TTDI

80 Jalan Burhanuddin Helmi Taman Tun Dr Ismail, TTDI, 60000 Kuala Lumpur

Phone: 018-398 0560

Opening Hours: 11AM – 10PM (daily)

PS: If you enjoyed reading this, please consider supporting my website via paypal.com @erisgoesto. Thanks for stopping by.

PS2: All expenses are out of my own pocket unless otherwise stated. Views here are my own and are based on my personal experience. They are not meant to endorse or disparage businesses/ establishments in any way.