Built in the 1970s, Wisma Cosway is an old mall located just across the road from Pavilion Kuala Lumpur. It used to be a pretty hidden spot that only office workers in the area knew about – but is currently undergoing a resurgence of sorts, with numerous hip eateries opening within that are attracting a younger crowd.

One of these establishments is Boys Don’t Fry, a joint serving authentic British fish and chips. Tucked on the ground floor next to the entrance, the shop is small but big on character, with much of the decor matching the building’s old school, retro look. Think neon orange plastic chairs, aluminium tables, dark wood accents, and shelves lined with bottles of HP sauce. There’s a bar counter at the periphery of the shop with black bar stools, ideal for solo dining.

The owner of Boys Don’t Fry, Tony, hails from Manchester, but is married to a Malaysian. Classic kopitiam cups on the counter add a local touch.

The menu at Boys Don’t Fry is limited – but I always see it as a good sign, because it means they know what they’re doing. Expect chippy classics like butties (carb-heavy sandwiches) for breakfast, with fillings such as sausage, egg, and… chips (sounds insane to put chips in between bread – but it works, surprisingly).

The signature offering is, of course, the fish and chips (RM38). Sea perch fillet is encased in a light, crispy batter before it is deep fried to golden perfection, then served atop a bed of thick cut chips, with classic sides of baked beans (you can also choose pickled cabbage and cucumber), mushy peas, and tartare sauce.

While I wouldn’t say it’s the best fish and chips I’ve had, the version here was pretty good. The fish came in a generous portion, with flaky insides and a thin, crispy shell. I did feel that it was a tad greasy, but I doused it with Sarson’s malt vinegar, so the acidity helped to cut through some of the greasiness (many Malaysians like to eat it with tartare sauce, but it’s more common to drench the fish in salt and vinegar in the UK!). The chips were good, and the sides were decent too.

Overall, I think Boys Don’t Fry delivers a nostaglic and authentic fish and chips experience, especially for Malaysians who have been to / studied in the UK. It certainly reminded me of my student days, when I used to stop by the chippy around the corner from my hostel on my way back from classes, and get a paper-wrapped fish and a box of chips for just 3 quid (about RM15 – this was way back when exchange rates were much kinder).

Boys Don’t Fry also has a branch in Bangsar.

BOYS DON’T FRY (WISMA COSWAY)

Lot G-74, 88, Jalan Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur, 50200 Kuala Lumpur

Phone: 03-2110 3319

Opening hours: 9AM – 3.30PM, 5PM – 8.30PM (closed Sundays)

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