Boat noodles (kuaitiao ruea) are so called because of the mode of transport from which the dish is sold from, namely boats that traverse Bangkok’s once thriving klongs (canals). Back when these ancient waterways formed an extensive network across the city, boat noodle peddlers hawked their wares across town – sort of like a traditional version of pizza delivery – making them immensely popular.

As these peddlers typically operated as a one-man show, having to paddle the boat, cook the noodles, serve, and then receive payment, the noodles were served in small bowls to avoid soup from spilling over, while also making it easier to hand to the customer.

Today, even though many of Bangkok’s canals have been filled in to make way for development, boat noodles remain a beloved dish. If anything, they’ve been ‘gentrified’ – not only will you find it sold in Bangkok’s traditional floating markets, you can also get them in cafes and restaurants, still served in tiny bowls as homage to the dish’s unique historical and cultural identity.

The good news for Malaysians: you don’t have to travel all the way to Bangkok to enjoy it, as there is a local chain called Boat Noodle which specialises in the dish, which they serve alongside a variety of Thai cuisine. The brand has had a presence across Peninsular Malaysia for some time now, but it was only recently that I tried it with N at their Tamarind Square, Cyberjaya branch.

The restaurant has a cosy vibe with subtle design elements inspired by the dish’s cultural and historical roots, most prominently the wooden tables which have a plank-like pattern which resembles traditional boats. The space is brightly lit courtesy of large windows and a lofty ceiling, while the colour scheme matches the landscaped greenery of the restaurant’s surroundings.

Traditionally, boat noodles contain either pork , beef, or both, with a strong, herby broth made from ingredients including dark soy sauce, garlic, radish, cinnamon, beansprouts, parsley, morning glory, and paprika, thickened with pig’s blood.

But since the Boat Noodle restaurant chain is certified halal, they’ve substituted the proteins with beef and chicken instead. The signatures are named after places in Thailand, namely Ayutthaya and Pathumthani. They also serve the popular Thai flavours of Khao Soi (Thai coconut curry noodles) and Tom Yum noodles. You can choose from two types of noodles and supplement your order with a variety of toppings, such as crispy chicken wonton, spring roll, fried wonton skin, or enoki mushrooms.

If ordering multiple small bowls doesn’t sound appealing to you, there are some regular-sized dishes like Kaw Pad (fried rice), Pad Thai (stir fried noodles) and Lava Egg Kraw Pow (spicy chicken with basil), in addition to snacks like pandan wings, beef and chicken meatballs, and a selection of Thai beverages.

We didn’t go too crazy: ordered one of each flavour and switched it up with different noodles/proteins. Also got some chicken / beef meatballs, and sides of fried chicken skin and enoki mushrooms.

The broths in their signatures arestrong and herbaceous, but tasty. As you slurp up the liquid, you get hints of the herbs like cilantro, garlic, and cinnamon but the flavours are well balanced and no one herb outshines the other.

The Ayutthaya is sweet and creamy, while the Pathumthani has a more opaque appearance and is kind of like Vietnamese beef noodle broth, with a sweet/sour taste. Both the rice noodles and the springy noodles are good too, chewy with a slight bite.

The khao soi (coconut milk curry) was another one for the books, creamy and rich with a hint of sweetness. This one is rather low on the spice level. If you’d like something sour, then the tom yum would work. It’s pricier at Rm10.90 per bowl, but it comes in a larger portion.

The snacks are decent as well. The enoki mushroom is excellent as a topping for the noodles since it’s thin and crispy, while the chicken skin is delightfully salty and sinful. Between the beef and chicken meatballs, I prefer the latter as it has a softer texture.

I don’t have a benchmark for Boat Noodle since I haven’t had the privilege to try the authentic version in Bangkok yet, but for what it’s worth, I’d say the dishes here are pretty good! It’s a good alternative for our Muslim friends as well, since the original usually has pork. Be prepared to fork out a bit because even though each portion only costs RM2.80 – RM3.80, you literally get one or two bites per bowl, and they stack up quickly if you’re a big eater.

BOAT NOODLE (CYBERJAYA)

D3-03-18, Tamarind Square, Persiaran Multimedia, 63000 Cyberjaya, Selangor

Opening hours: 10.30am – 9.30pm

http://boatnoodle.com.my

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