If you’ve read my Filipino food entries, then you’ll know that pork sisig is one of my favourite Filipino dishes.

I mean, what’s not to like about a sinful serving of finely chopped pork jowl and ears mixed with chilli and onions, cooked on a sizzling hotplate then served with a dash of calamansi? It’s salty, it’s tangy, it’s fatty – and absolutely delicious. It’s no wonder late chef Anthony Bourdain called it a dish that would “win the hearts and minds of the world.” One of these days I hope to travel to Pampanga – ie the birthplace of sisig – and try the ‘original’ version there.

Prior to our trip to the Philippines, I Googled “Best places for sisig in Manila”, and one name that constantly cropped up on every list was Manam, a restaurant chain serving Filipino cuisine with a modern twist. I told the Hubs that we could perhaps try it if we could find the time.

Lo and behold – on our first day back in Manila, my in-laws treated us to dinner at the Manam outlet at Gateway Mall II in Cubao. Knowing my love for sisig, they also ordered a plate for us to share, alongside some of the brand’s signature dishes.

The restaurant is tucked underneath an escalator on the ground floor of the mall, just next to Tim Ho Wan, and is divided into two dining areas. The inside boasts a beige colour scheme, downlights, and gently curving arch detailing on the walls, which immediately create a warm, inviting atmosphere. Floor to ceiling glass windows also help to create a sense of open space.

Meanwhile, the exterior houses more tables and booth seating, with lights installed on wooden accent beams. I think the design is very tasteful; it clearly demarcates the restaurant’s space, while still keeping things open to give it a more spacious feel.

There was a queue waiting to be seated, a testament to the restaurant’s popularity. Fortunately, we were able to snag a table in under 30 minutes.

Manam offers an extensive menu, with authentic, traditional dishes as well as some that feature a modern twist. Most dishes come in small, medium, and large sizes which make them ideal for sharing. Aside from mains, there is also a good selection of snacks and bites (pulutan), desserts, and drinks.

We ordered three dishes, all of them signatures, to be shared among the five of us. Of course, no Filipino meal is complete without a large heaping of white rice.

The star of the show has to be the House Crispy Sisig, which by the way, spot.ph named “Best Sisig in Manila” two years in a row. And for good reason.

Unlike other pork sisigs that I have tried, which are usually chewy and fatty, what differentiates Manam’s version is its crunchy texture. It actually felt more like eating pork rinds interspersed with aromatic bits of pork fat, complemented by generous lashings of fried garlic. The meat also had a creamy consistency, but rather than being cloying, it acted as a complement to the crunchiness – so you get these lovely textures with each bite. If you like rice, then this will definitely help you polish off bowls of it.

Another one of their bestselling dishes is the Sinigang na Beef Short Ribs and Watermelon, which is apparently an original creation by one of the brand’s co-founders.

For my non-Filipino readers, sinigang is a savoury / sour soup, the flavour of which is mainly derived from tamarind. It can be cooked with different types of meat, such as pork, shrimp, fish, beef, or just plain with vegetables. The version at Manam uses beef short ribs, which has been pressure cooked to such perfection the meat requires just the slightest touch from a fork to separate it from the bone. Using beef ribs also gives it a beautiful balance of lean and fat, giving it that melt-in-the-mouth feel as you bite into each piece.

The watermelon adds a unique dimension to the dish, its natural sweetness contrasting nicely with the tamarind’s sourness. I enjoyed biting into pieces of the fruit, as it had absorbed the soup’s sourness but still retained some sweetness within. It had a bit of a slimy texture which N did not like as it thickened the soup’s consistency, but I felt it was very refreshing.

Last but not least, a dish I had never tried before – laing, or taro leaves cooked in coconut milk and various spices such as chilli, garlic, shallots, ginger, and shrimp paste. It is a Bicolano dish, from the Bicol region. I was actually made aware of this dish recently after watching an episode of Filipino drama, Replacing Chef Chico on Netflix, where the protagonist prepares several different versions of laing on the behest of a client.

I’m glad that Manam gave me this first experience, as I was blown away by how tasty it was – and this coming from someone who hates eating vegetables. Taro leaves are not common in Malaysian Chinese cuisine (in fact, I don’t believe I’ve ever had it), so I was intrigued by its flavour. The reason why I don’t enjoy vegetables is because many types of veggies have a strong, leafy taste – but the laing had almost none. Instead it was very mild and soft, with a consistency similar to spinach, and the coconut milk was thoroughly absorbed, which gave it this subtle sweetness and creaminess.

My MIL wasn’t happy with the dish as she said there wasn’t enough coconut milk, but I really enjoyed the laing. I’m curious though if a version with heavier portions of coconut milk would taste better.

I highly recommend sharing the Manam Ube Shake. The serving is humongous and comes in a tall glass, with a huge straw so you can suck up the sago pearls at the bottom. The colour is gorgeous and the consistency is thick, almost like a creamy milkshake, and surprise surprise – it’s not too sweet! I say this because N says I have very low tolerance for strong, sweet things (which is the majority of Filipino desserts).

It’s rare to find a restaurant where every single dish is a 10, but I believe Manam has broken records as there was absolutely nothing I could find fault with. Everything was well prepared, well seasoned, nicely presented. Servers were friendly, service was prompt, the environment is cosy. It definitely deserves its popularity as a comforting spot for modern Filipino cuisine in Manila.

MANAM COMFORT FILIPINO

Coliseum Plaza, GF Gateway Mall 2, Araneta City, Quezon City

Phone: +63 906 340 5008

Opening hours: 10AM – 9PM (Sun-Thurs), 10AM – 10PM (Fri-Sat)

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PS2:  All food reviews are at own expense unless otherwise stated. Views here are my own and are based on my personal experience. They are not meant to endorse or disparage businesses in any way.