India is a land of breathtaking forts and palaces, each more beautiful than the last – but one that regularly crops up on the ‘must-visit’ list is Amer Fort (also called Amber Fort), a 16th-century fort-cum-palace in Jaipur, in the landlocked state of Rajasthan.

Perched atop a promontory overlooking Maota Lake, it was built by renowned Kachwaha Rajput ruler Raja Man Singh, who served in the court of Mughal emperor Akbar as a trusted general. Renowned for his bravery and military prowess, Man Singh helped to lead numerous campaigns against Akbar’s enemies.

Amer Fort served as the residence of the Kachwahas royal family, and because of the close ties Man Singh (and his predecessor Jai Man Singh I) had with the Mughals, you’ll see many Mughal and Islamic influences in its architecture, despite the Rajputs being Hindu.

Getting to Amber Fort

The roads leading up to Amer Fort are steep and winding, so you can either take a jeep or ride an elephant. Jeep rides cost about RS500 (RM22 or $5.50 two-way) and can be booked by your local tour operator, or you can find one at the parking lot located at the base of the fort.

Elephant riding has been a tourist offering here since at least the 1970s – but I strongly suggest NOT supporting this for obvious reasons. If the idea of walking bare feet on hot asphalt in Rajasthan’s dry, scorching weather sounds like torture for you – imagine the plight of the elephants being made to carry tourists up and down the steep slopes from morning til afternoon each day, with very little rest.

**Read the story of Rani – one of Amer Fort’s working elephants – here – then let me know if you can still ride them in good conscience.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Disembarking near the entrance, we’re met by the breathtaking sight of the surrounding hills, part of the Amavalli range which divides Rajasthan into two. These are extremely ancient mountains, and even though vegetation is sparse, there is a unique beauty in their undulating, wave-like shapes.

Prior to Jaipur, our group had visited several forts, tombs, and palaces in New Delhi and Agra (including the greatest monument to love!), but I could immediately tell that the architecture at Amer Fort was different.

While it has Mughal influences, the layout is not as symmetrical. Rajput architecture is also characterised by expansive, multi-tiered courtyards and gardens, as well as jharokhas (overhanging closed balconies) and chhatris (dome-shaped pavilions).

The other major difference is the colour: while many of the Mughal forts and buildings feature red sandstone, Amer Fort favours a blend of yellow and pink. Marble is common in both Rajput and Mughal architecture.

There are two entry gates; one for the elephant rides and the other for those who arrive by vehicle. Both lead into Jaleb Chowk, the central square and one of the palace’s largest, since this was where troops had their victory parades after returning from battles. Latticed windows on the upper level of the palace allowed the womenfolk, who could not be seen by the public, to observe the festivities.

From the square, we ascended a set of steps to the main palace grounds, where we’re greeted by Ganesh Pol, the grand gate leading into the palace’s inner courtyards and royal residences. It is dedicated to the Hindu elephant god Ganesha, who is revered in Hinduism as a remover of obstacles.

Over the entryway is an exquisitely painted image of the deity, while the rest of the gate is covered in intricate frescoes and alternating recesses, which create a dramatic interplay of light and shadow.

Unsurprisingly, the venue is popular for wedding photoshoots. We saw several couples dressed in resplendent traditional costumes – the ladies looked especially lovely in their vibrant sarees. This pretty lady looked slightly embarrassed by the attention, but humoured her enamoured audience with a smile as she twirled for the camera, her bangles clinking and jingling like windchimes.

Another bride (who looked absolutely gorgeous!) resting in the shade between photoshoots.

Passing through Ganesh Pol, we navigated through a series of narrow corridors with honeycomb-shaped holes. I think the design is such that it allows servants to traverse the courtyard without being seen by members of the royal family. We emerged in another courtyard, this one boasting a Mughal-style garden with two buildings on each side.

One of these is the famed Jai Mandir, also called Sheesh Mahal, or the Hall of Mirrors. Nearly every inch of this pleasure pavilion is covered in mirror mosaics and coloured glasses, creating the illusion of being inside a sparkling jewellery box. It was, according to stories, especially magical at night, where the flickering from a single candlelight would illuminate the entire pavilion. It also affords enchanting views over Lake Moata – truly the pinnacle of what riches could get you in ancient times.

With so much splendour, you would think that the palace is all about aesthetics – but there is some serious engineering and tech being applied here that will make you marvel at human ingenuity.

Case in point: the Sukh Mahal (Hall of Pleasure), located just across the courtyard from the Sheesh Mahal. Summers in India can be unbearable, especially in Rajasthan where the climate is dry and arid. Since the Sukh Mahal is made of marble, which dissipates heat, the interiors feel much cooler. They also had a piped water supply running through the pavilion via an open channel that cascaded down to the gardens, furthering the cooling effect. Sort of like an ancient version of air-conditioning.

There is a lot to marvel at at Amer Fort. If you can, get an experienced guide, who can regale you with tales of its history, political intrigues, and romantic dalliances – but exploring the grounds on your own is wonderful too, as you can take the time to truly soak in all the architectural details.

Buying Tickets

Entry is 100rupees for locals and 500rupees (RM22 – about 5USD) for foreign tourists. Tickets can be purchased on-site, or online at the Rajasthan Tourism website.

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