Can you believe that it has been over a decade since I last set foot in Bali? Time sure flies. But I’m happy to be back!
Things have certainly changed a lot on the island, especially in tourist areas like Canggu, Ubud, and Uluwatu, which has seen an explosion of resorts, hotels, bars, and clubs. Traffic is, according to locals, horrendous now. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t pockets of tranquility that you can escape to.
Jimbaran on the south side of the island, is known for its beaches and seafood restaurants – and it’s where you’ll find Raffles Hotel Bali, a serene five-star retreat surrounded by lush greenery, with panoramic views of the ocean. It’s also where I got to stay for 3D2N while covering an event. Here’s how the experience went!
Airport Pickup
One of the things I love about Raffles is their service, which is incomparable. This started from the moment I exited the airport, where a driver picked me up in a luxurious six seater, complete with plush seats and an arsenal of local snacks and treats. There was also a traditional Indonesian (jamu) welcome drink in a hip flask with its own handmade leather pocket, charging ports, free Wifi – basically everything you need for a comfy car ride. The 30-minute trip was almost too short.
As you enter the grounds, there’s a clear switch between the hustle and bustle of the surrounding areas, and the exclusive privacy of the resort. A pair of travelers palms – also the Raffles symbol – welcomes guests at the entrance.
The Resort & Private Villa
Spanning 23-hectares along the slopes overlooking the Jimbaran waterfront, Raffles Bali is a 32-key, villa-only resort that balances a strong sense of place with the signature Raffles brand of bespoke hospitality. Local touches are infused throughout the property, from the design of its villas to how they’re built to follow the lay of the land, with each villa enjoying ocean views. The landscape is incredibly lush as well, highlighting Bali’s natural beauty.
One of the Raffles signature experience is its butler service, and upon arrival, I was assigned to mine – Yudi – who did a fantastic job throughout my stay. Since the resort grounds are expansive, it can be difficult to walk around especially in the hot weather – but Yudi was always prompt at arranging buggies whenever I requested for one, and was excellent at reminding me of the itinerary I had in store (from spa sessions to lunch and dinner). Another thoughtful touch (which I also experienced at Raffles Siem Reap: staff members here call you by your name, which is lovely and shows the level of attentiveness they put into making sure guests feel truly at home).
Speaking of home, this was my Ocean Pool Villa for two nights! I love the elegant design and the subtle nods to local heritage and nature. Immediately upon passing through the traditional Balinese doorway, you’ll find a small courtyard filled with trees and plants. Inside the villa, the space is bright and airy, with lacquered mahogany floors, rattan and wood furniture, and high ceilings.
Welcome goodies – fresh fruits and a refreshing nyuh gading (coconut) drink.
Non-alcoholic beverages at the minibar are complimentary. For those who like to imbibe, there is a nice selection of alcoholic drinks as well, including a few local artisanal brands.
If you have to squeeze in some work (but why would you when the pool is just steps away?), there’s a spacious work desk provided.
The bathtub was easily my favourite feature of the villa, and where I spent most of my time soaking when I wasn’t taking a dip in the pool. The floor to ceiling glass windows, which overlooks the tropical garden, blur the lines between the indoor and outdoor spaces, so it felt like I was taking a bath in nature, minus the mozzies, bugs, and heat. Additional touches that elevated the whole bathtime experience: the wooden bath tray laden with amenities, and there was even a waterproof pillow for me to rest my head on.
Outside the room is an open terrace, a shaded gazebo, and a pool overlooking the ocean. There’s also a pathway from the villa’s entrance that leads directly to the outdoor area. While it’s tempting to have the sliding doors open at night for a cool breeze, it’s not advisable unless you’re okay with sharing the room with resident geckos and assorted bugs.
Dining
Rumari
There are several F&B options at The Raffles Hotel Bali, the all-day restaurant being Rumari, perched high on the cliffside with sweeping panoramas of the hills and ocean.
Led by French Chef Gaetan Biesuz, the name Rumari is a portmanteau of the Indonesian words Rumah (house), Purnama (full moon), and Matahari (sun), which fits the kind of progressive-meets-heritage Indonesian and Southeast Asian cuisine it serves. In line with the resort’s commitment to sustainability, 80 percent of the ingredients are sourced from small and independent farms and producers in Bali and its neighbouring islands.
The breakfast menu is a mix of hearty Indonesian staples and wellness-focused creations. Some of the items I tried were the Jimbaran Bay Lobster Omelette – comprising rock lobster bisque, tomato, scallion, and Asian herbs; and the Tuna Poke of Sunrio Farm organic rainforest rice poke studded with yellowfin tuna, Jimbaran bay seaweed, edamame, jicama, and sesame seeds. But if there’s a must-order item, I’d go for the 60 Celcius Organic Tabanan Duck Egg – it’scooked perfectly with the runny yolk oozing over the avocado, gotukola and watercress atop a bed of multigrain toast.
By night, Rumari transforms into an intimate space, with an elegant menu to match. Our eight-course dinner shone the spotlight on different regions of Bali and their diverse flavours, kicking off with light bites of pork floss tacos and beef rendang dimsum, plus warm and toasty bread accompanied by pats of peanut butter infused with kemanggi (lemon basil) and shaped like honeycomb (which everyone couldn’t get enough of).
Kicking things off proper is West Sumatra, a delicate mud crab spiced with green chilli, jicama, and ginger flower, followed by the Baturiti, made from heritage pork from George Organic Black Heritage Pig Farm. A spin on the Balinese classic babi guling, the pork was served with fromage, cheeks chicarron, and a salted egg and bacon emulsion, which worked well to bring out the pork’s natural fattiness and umami. I also enjoyed Sibang, a crayfish chawanmushi layered with Padang curry and heirloom tomatoes.
My personal favourite is Negara – a surf and turf pairing of organic duck egg, coconut, and Kristal Caviar Maison Kaviari. The confit duck yolk had a creamy, velvety texture, which went exceedingly well with the briny pop of caviar. Meat lovers will enjoy Plaga, made with Gundagai lamb, cooked to tender perfection and smothered in cassava gulai.
As for desserts, Karangasem is a play on the traditional arroz con leche (Chef G’s grandmother hails from Andalusia), but instead of caramel and eggs, it uses rice, vanilla arak, and stingless bee honey. Wrapping things up is Kintamani, a citrusy finisher with orange, lemon, keffir lime, and lintong coffee.
Writer’s Bar
For pre and post dinner drinks, Writer’s Bar is just next to Rumari, providing a refined setting for afternoon tea and artisanal cocktails. The Singapore Sling (which was first created at the Raffles Singapore and has since become an icon of cocktails at bars around the world) gets its own iteration here in the form of the Bali Sling — comprising Sipsmith London dry gin, Arak Bali, Dom benedictine with tropical and fruity, sour-sweet notes from soursop, jackfruit, grenadine, angostura bitter, and soda water.
Loloan
For something more casual and laidback, there’s Loloan (which in Balinese refers to the point where the river meets the sea – a fitting name since the spot where it sits on is where a dry riverbed running through the resort meets the sea). It’s also close to the 25m infinity pool, so it’s great for light bites or lunch after a swim. Alternatively, drop by the evening for a romantic dinner with sunset views and some cocktails.
My three course lunch (from left): Local produced burrata salad; grilled calamari with a humongous side heaping of potatoes and tomatoes; and Bedugul Strawberry – vanilla sponge, kaffir lime whipped ganache, and Bali strawberry compote.
Wellness
Balinese culture and practices are deeply rooted in nature and balance (the concept of Tri Hita Karana emphasises the connection between humans, the nature, and the divine) – and with such a prime, beautiful location, it’s fitting that the hotel offers curated wellness experiences that reflect these aspects.
My second day at the resort started with morning yoga and a Tibetan singing bowl session at the Secret Cave, a natural cavern which the hotel has set aside for wellness activities and private dining. There was a slight drizzle when I got to the cave, but the space was dry and the gentle pitter patter of raindrops, coupled with the breeze and the chirping of birds, was so relaxing that I nearly fell asleep during the Savasana.
Other wellness programmes that the resort offers include Soul Blessing, Chakra Balancing, and Fire Cleansing, to name a few.
Over at the Raffles Spa, which was recently named one of the Best Hotel Spas in Indonesia at this year’s Travel + Leisure Luxury Awards Asia Pacific, there are a multitude of restorative treatments to indulge in, rooted in ancient Balinese practices. My Signature Balinese massage soothed the tension of tired muscles, leaving me refreshed and energised for the evening’s activities.
Experiences
Raffles Bali has a slew of curated activities that give guests a closer look at the Balinese way of life, from workshops to museum visits. If you’re interested in plants and nature, though, I highly recommend the Botanical Tour, where you’ll get to explore the resort’s grounds with the resident Botanical Guru.
More than 60% of the estate is preserved as green space and it is home to more than 100 plant species, encompassing native vegetation, a protected river valley, and biodiverse cliffside terrain. One of the highlights of the tour is the small but interesting Farm Terrace, where you’ll find about 18 herbs and plants such as gotokula, lemon basil, torch ginger, and more – some of which wind up on your plate / in your drinks at the resort’s F&B outlets.
Shoutout to my Botanical Guru, Indira, who is very knowledgable and passionate about sharing the different types of plants (and their uses, whether for cooking or wellness) within the resort grounds.
There are some old trees as well, which have been there since the resort’s inception – but rather than cut them down, they’ve chosen to either relocate them or build around them in order to preserve as much of the landscape as possible. These include a couple of fig trees, Chinese jujube, and moringa trees, as well as a massive Indian ash tree, where Indira pointed out a hardened mass of sap, which local fishermen use as glue for their boats.
Overall Thoughts
While researching other reviews, I was surprised to read a top-ranked one on Google that had a rather harsh critique of the place, saying that it felt outdated and had a creepy crawlie situation. To me it was nitpicky because it’s the tradeoff for being this close to nature, and management does take extra steps to minimize insect intrusions such as having mosquito repellent at the ready and doing sprays during turndown service.
The hotel is actually relatively new, having opened in 2021 when the economy was still reeling from the pandemic, so much of the resort feels (to me, at least) brand new and untouched, with many exciting things planned (such as the Rumari X Friends series, where Chef G collaborates with chefs from all around the world to create exclusive dining experiences).
Service is, as expected from Raffles, impeccable: there’s a genuine warmth that you feel from the staff, and I think this extends to the way the staff is celebrated by the hotel as well (at dinner one evening, we were given a cute card with illustrations of each member of the restaurant staff printed on them, which is such a lovely touch!)
That being said, it’s not for everyone. Visitors who like to be close to the action may find the resort’s location inconvenient since it’s in Jimbaran, which is closer to the airport. For those who are looking for a getaway, however, Raffles Hotel Bali offers a truly tranquil escape.
PS: Prices for the villas average around USD2,000, depending on season.
PS 2: I was invited to Raffles Hotel Bali for an event and the stay was complimentary. Views here are my own.
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